Each December for the past 42 years, a one-of-a-kind Christmas market takes over the plaza in front of Gare de l’Est in Paris. For tourists who can’t make it to the world-famous Strasbourg market in eastern France, this mini version offers a taste of Alsatian specialties like gingerbread, traditional bretzels, local wine and hand-made ornaments. Simon Camelot paid a visit and spoke with visitors from around the world.
Unlike most holiday open-air markets in Paris, this one takes place under a heated tent. With Christmas music playing, Americans Trevor and Erika wine glasses in hand, marveled over star-shaped shortbread cakes with a hazelnut center.
Trevor : « I never experienced an Alsatian Christmas market before so, for first impressions, it’s cool, it’s beautiful, it’s a nice kind of Christmas market. »
Erika : « Yeah, it’s wonderful, it’s like going into a specialties shop, which is like small and cosy and you can talk to the people, ask questions one and one and looking different things, not be overcrowded and have a million of people jumping all over you. »
Far from the madness of the crowded, massive Tuileries market, the one at Gare de l’Est has around twenty stalls. Many vendors return each year but only Régine’s family has come since the market first opened. She is selling a selection of Riesling, the main variety produced by her family’s winery.
Régine : « Since the beginning, it means 42 years. My parents have been here before of course, we are following and also my daughter. »
A few rows away, Matilde sells cheese typical of the region, like pungent orange rounds of Munster made with raw cow’s milk.
Mathilde : « Everything here is homemade, in our ferme auberge, it’s CHRISTLESGUT. My brother work there and my uncle works there and they make everything that we sell
No Alsatian market could leave out Strasbourg sausages, famous for their copious size, this time cut into bite-size bits. Telma, from Finland, eats them with her fingers.
Telma: «Why ? Because they are just easy to pick, we don’t need a plate and you can just eat it now»
Some visitors came after hearing about the market and others just happened upon it by chance, like Philippe who made a quick stop before catching his train home to Germany.
Philippe : « I was walking to the train station and I saw it on the side and I had a few minutes »
After a stop in Strasbourg, Steven and Siobhan, from Ireland, enjoyed another small piece of Alsace, this time in Paris.
Steven : « We were in Strasbourg yesterday and it’s similar vibe. »
Siobhan : « The food and the gifts are similar. »
No matter the reason for their visit, tourists seemed charmed by this traditional market, unique in Paris.
Simon Camelot.